| SKIN CARE
COSMECEUTICALS
VS.
“HOPE IN A JAR”
That beautiful ad that lured you into buying that
cream that would make your skin young…..was it telling
the truth? It probably felt and smelled good – but
made no real change. Skin care products from the
retail store can do very little because their ingredients
are regulated by law, hence the term “hope in a
jar”. The vast majority of over-the-counter skin
preparations are “feel good” products, moisturizers,
cleansers, toners, sunscreens, or derivatives of
effective agents but in very weak concentrations.
Medications which truly have the power to correct
cosmetic skin problems are called ‘cosmeceuticals’
and are only available through the medical profession.
Aged, sundamaged skin has characteristics which
can be seen under the laboratory microscope, and
cosmecuticals reverse the harmful changes.
The most frequently used cosmeceuticals, for the most
part, are:
Tretinoin (Retin-A®): The best single thing you can
do for your skin over your lifetime—reverses almost
all of the above listed changes from photoaging, and
perhaps the only thing for ‘shrinking’ large pores.
Fruit based (hydroxy) acids: Stimulate skin renewal
by injuring the surface which calls forth the natural
healing response from below (exfoliation).
Hydroquinone: Inhibits enzyme activity in melanin
formation. Blends and slows skin hyperpigmentation.
Vitamin C: Anti-oxidant promotes dermal collagen formation.
Sunblocks: For protection.
Our favorite line of products for skin correction
and health is OBAGI.
Dr. Zein E. Obagi, a Beverly Hills dermatologist,
has ‘systematized’ these effective agents (except
Vitamin C) into the NU-DERM® PROGRAM of products
for home use. A study at Johns Hopkins University
has validated Dr. Obagi’s many years of work on
NU-DERM®. He has also developed the BLUE PEEL® to
work synergistically with NU-DERM®. I know of no
better long term treatment of any kind for skin.
OBAGI® restores skin quality by restoring its health—as
I have explained above.
OBAGI NU-DERM® SYSTEM:
contains cleanser, toner, hydroquinone, acid exfoliant,
Retin-A®, and SPF 24 sunblock. The program takes some
time to arrive at maximum effect. There is the necessary
initial redness and flaking ( “I hate it” ) phase
as stimulation begins, then comes the tolerance (
“I like it” ) phase when the skin starts looking good.
Finally, 10-12 weeks from the start, the skin is fully
corrected and tolerant (“I love it” phase) exhibiting
the desired radiance—thereafter, only maintenance
is needed. Success with NU-DERM® requires some knowledge,
patience and perseverence until full skin tolerance
is reached.
OBAGI BLUE PEEL®:
Dr. Obagi developed this ingenious treatment method
to work with NU-DERM® as an enhancer or accelerator.
Chemical peels of all kinds are used with good results;
however, vary widely in features such as controllability,
evenness, predictability, etc. The BLUE PEEL® employs
trichloracetic acid (TCA) with a unique blue mixing
base, which acts as a color indicator to precisely
control depth. It has built-in safeguards and end-points
which assure consistent results for every patient
every time.
KIM LEGER, PARAMEDICAL ESTHETIIAN, is our in-house
skin expert. She has almost 3 decades of experience
in all aspects of skin care, both office procedure
or self-care programs. She loves to be involved
with all new advances in the field. |